Ueli Reports on Shisha Pangma Ascent

Project Himalaya: Shisha Pangma
An Alpine-Style Ascent
By: Ueli Steck

Shisha Pangma was just great. One of those days when everything works out. I just started to climb, but did not expect to go to the summit. I was just thinking that I am going out to check the conditions up to 7200 meters. But things went well. Perfect Full Moon. Perfect conditions like on Cholatse and I felt great!

I climbed the first part on the British Route then I traversed into the Wieliki Route because of bad rockfall in the night, and I ended by exiting on the Spanish Route. I didn’t have a Topo so i just climbed where I felt there was a good way… The exit was okay, with a few rock sections. After I got to the Summit Ridge I left my pack. There was not much in there but a stove, goggles, some extra food, and half a container of liquid. I climbed the whole route in down pants and jacket. But the temperatures were quite nice. The Meteogram said it was minus 12 degrees Celsius at 8000 meters. Maybe it was around -20 in the night. The ridge was okay – not much snow. The wind blew all the snow away earlier, so I reached the main summit quite quickly. Some of the traverse was a little scary because under the ridge on the Northside there was a lot a snow.

10:25 PM (16. April): I left ABC
1:10 AM (17 April): I just crossed the Bergschrund
11:40 AM: I reached summit.
6.30 PM: Returned to ABC

On the whole trip, I felt quite good. No headache. Not totally fatigued… But now here in Nyalam, I can feel I climbed an 8000 meter peak. I am looking forward to Cho Oyu. We just take it easy. Trying to sleep high, to be best prepared for afterward.